Monday, May 27, 2013

Camino de Santiago (part 6); My Five Favorite Photographs.





This photograph captures the vibrancy and resilience of the human spirit. This colorful collection of buildings  is located along a stretch of road that passes through an old and abandoned village. On both sides of the way a profusion of stone buildings once held the sounds of families but today sit forlornly in piles of rubble, utterly abandoned to the wind and sun. And then suddenly one sees these cheerful flags fluttering and this expression of human resilience in these reclaimed structures. 
This church and attached monastery seemed mysteriously timeless. Just inside was a Franciscan monk who stamped the "credentiale" of pilgrims. He was straight out of a Cervantes novel.  

This picture captures the feeling of distance. In the beginning of the journey we felt impossibly far away from the destination. The mile markers painfully ticked off our progress kilometer by kilometer. Sometimes the distance was overwhelming. Seeing the road stretch out in front of you like this when you are already tired was at times depressing. No place to shelter. No place to escape the blistering sun. And yet by staying present with each step we did make progress. 
Walking in the Galician mountains reminded me of home! The lushness of the fields seemed soft and welcoming. Often one could hear the gentle babble of a creek singing its way down the valley. The air was fresh and unpolluted. The cows were the most beautiful I have ever seen and they really did have a contented look about them. Everything had a human scale about it as if hand made with love. 

Many of the roads in Spain are small. There is an intimacy with what appears on either side of the road. Because one moves slower toward one's destination, one has time to appreciate the beauty, the moment, the setting. Here in the US we are very goal driven. We often focus on the destination and miss the journey.






Buddha's Fire Sermon; Everything is Burning!

This article by Andrew Olendski was included in the Wisdom section of Tricycle magazine. I rarely read articles twice, but this one so clearly explains our present situation in the world that I was drawn to read it repeatedly. Knowing (or beginning to know) the causes of our suffering we do have a chance to reduce it.  WPS


“Everything is burning!” said the Buddha almost 25 centuries ago. “Burning with what? Burning with the fires of greed, hatred and delusion.”(Samyutta Nikaya 35.28) These words seem prophetic today, as our planet is slowly warmed by the fires blazing in our furnaces and engines, by the explosion of our bullets and bombs, and by the raging delusions around which our entire world seems to be organized. There is not a single problem we face as human beings—other than the tectonic (earthquakes), the astronomical (meteor strikes), or the existential (aging and death)—that does not find its origin in greed, hatred, or delusion, whether of people or their institutions.

Like a fire, greed is more a process than a thing. It is the state of combustion, the activity of consumption, the procedure by means of which organic resources are quickly reduced to a heap of ash. It is insatiable by nature, since the moment one desire is gratified another flares up, demanding also to be sated. Greed drives an unquenchable compulsion to consume, and as the guiding hand of our economic system, its reach is rapidly becoming global. As it burns it throws off a compelling light, dazzling us with the pleasure of its shapes and colors. We delight in playing with this fire.

Hatred is a hotter, bluer, more sinister flame. It seethes among the coals, preserving its heat over time, until blasting forth suddenly with a surge of the bellows. It can simmer as discontent, smolder as suppressed rage, or lurk hot underground as a molten river of loathing. When it does flare up, the fire of hatred scorches all in its path indiscriminately, often searing the innocent bystander with the ferocity of its angry flames.

Delusion is subtler. Like the lamp behind the projector or a reflection in a mirror, delusion shines with a soft light and illuminates indirectly. It shows things as other than they are—as stable, satisfying, personal, and alluring. Its optical tricks are endearingly creative, so much so that sometimes we hardly know where the light leaves off and the darkness begins. Delusion leads us to revel in wielding the fires of greed and hatred, oblivious of the harm inflicted both on ourselves and on those around us.

The Buddha identifies these three fires as the origin of both individual and collective suffering. Things do not become the way they are by chance, for no reason, or because a deity makes them so. It is the quality of our intention that shapes the world we inhabit, and our world is burning up because of the fires smoldering in our hearts. Resources are being depleted because people greedily consume them and lust for the money produced thereby. People are being killed, raped, tortured, and exploited because they are hated, because other people do not regard them as worthy of respect or basic rights. And the world blindly, stupidly, deceptively plods along this path to destruction because people do not know—or do not want you to know—any better.

And you know what? This is good news. Why? Because the causes of all the trouble have been exposed, and by knowing them we stand a chance of overcoming them. Just think if our problems were due to continental drift, or to an approaching meteor—then we would really be cooked. Fire is actually a very fragile phenomenon. Diminish its heat, starve it of oxygen, or take away its fuel, and it cannot sustain itself. In fact, it is entirely dependent upon external conditions; change these conditions, and it will go out. The Buddha put out the fires of greed, hatred, and delusion in himself and showed us all how to do the same thing. Perhaps we can use this knowledge to quench the fires that are heating our planet and devouring our world.

Something empowering happens when we begin to see these problems as internal rather than external. We have access to ourselves. We have the ability to make internal changes when the mechanisms for change are within our reach. A slight shift of attitude, a minor adjustment of priorities, an occasional opening to a wider perspective, the glimpse of a good greater than the merely personal—these all contribute in a small way to turning down the heat. And since we are faced not with a single enormous fire but with billions of little fires, each one ablaze in one person, miniscule changes in one mind here and one heart there can add up to a dramatic reduction of greenhouse defilements.

All it would take is a gradual increase in generosity and an incremental reduction of the need for gratification to begin to turn down the heat of greed’s fire. Planting a tree rather than cutting one down engages a different quality of mind, an attitude of giving rather than of taking. Appreciating when we get what we need, instead of demanding always to get what we want, removes fuel from the fire instead of stoking it. The flames of hatred are banked when we shoot a picture instead of an animal, when we fight injustice rather than our neighbor, when we include someone different in our circle, or even when we relinquish our hold, ever so slightly, on something that annoys us in a mundane moment of daily life. Just as heat is pumped into the system each and every moment through inattention, so also can heat be consistently and inexorably extracted as we bring more mindfulness to what we think, say, and do. A tranquil mind is a cooler mind, and the Buddha has described the movement toward awakening as “becoming cool” (siti-bhuta).

The solution to all our (nonexistential) problems is very close at hand. Look within, reach within, each and every moment—and turn down the thermostat just a degree or two. The fires consuming our world are not sustainable. If we do not feed the fires, they will go out.

Andrew Olendzki, Ph.D
., is executive director and senior scholar at the Barre Center for Buddhist Studies in Barre, Massachusetts. He is the editor of Insight Journal.

Thursday, May 23, 2013

Camino de Santiago (part 5)

In order to get the most out of the experience of walking the Camino it is best to drop expectations. The journey is different for each pilgrim and there really is no way to predict how you will respond to the different things that happen to you on your unique journey. A good practice is to remain open to everything that happens and know that there will be highs and lows. It is unrealistic to think it will be wonderful the whole way. Stay open to all the little surprises that rise up to meet you and try not to judge them as good or bad. They are just surprises for you.
We met a young German man, Michael, who was 21. Although it seemed that he would walk much faster than us, we kept running into him, which surprised us. "Why isn't he further along?" we would ask ourselves. Then one day we found out. Michael was on the lookout for surprises and he took the time to savor them. After all,  these were special gifts offered up just for him. Why should he ignore them or not give them his full attention?  
One day he told us, with an elfin twinkle in his eye, that there was a conjunction of three little surprises that caused him to sit down and take his shoes off; butterflies on a flower, the singing of birds, and a perfect rock to sit on nearby. This was an invitation to contemplate the beauty of that special moment; a gift for him. We often would hear how various "surprises" would delay him on his journey. For Michael, the goal was the journey. Santiago was just a point on the compass, a general direction to follow. 
We were captivated by this young man who seemed so connected to the present and so unlike  many who miss the present moment completely, especially at 21 years of age. To us he seemed both childlike and wise well beyond his years. I will always remember the last time I saw him. We bumped into each other at the Cathedral of Saint James in Santiago. He jumped up, threw his arms into the air, and with a huge smile of recognition, hugged both Jane and I with great enthusiasm. His refreshing enthusiasm had won us over for he seemed to embody a kind of childlike curiosity and wonder  for life. For us, he was one of the wonderful little surprises we had during our journey. 
The following photographs have an element of surprise. 

Michal (on left) Penny and Jan, William and Jane.
This pooch observes the commings and goings of the Camino from a second story window. 


Such a beautiful statue of Saint James sits in the open.

The bee hive shape intrigued us and there was no explanation to be found. 

How many pilgrims did it take to create this labyrinth? It was at least 100 feet in diameter. 

The roof over El Cid's tomb (Catherdral of Burgos) seemed light enough to float away

Such a touching bedroom scent for their royal resting place...

...with their little dog eternally at their feet. 

Political graffiti 

So much for electrical code!

These plain trees have joined hands to create a leafy tunnel (when they leaf out that is) 

Last honors for worn out boots

A harbinger of spring

This albergue had an interesting facade 

Inner courtyard adorned with potted plants

I cant imagine how hard it was to paint this wall!

More political/environmental sentiments found on a rock along the way

These bells would ring out the hour...all night long!

A reclaimed rock structure in an abandoned village serves as an make shift albergue. We heard bed bugs might be an issue here, so we passed it up. 

A small offering of refreshment for pilgrims. Take what you need and give what you can. 

Ornamentation on a wall

If you don't have straight boards, use curved ones.

The oldest tree (a Chestnut) on the Camino is more than 800 years old and has protected status. 

A curious horse looks in to our dorm room

These were the happiest cows I have ever seen. 


A little hidden Roman bridge seems magical

Every house has its own rodent proof grain storage 

A morning stroll with the herd

Another beautiful Saint James statue carved from a standing stone

Walking clothesline

Spring effigy figure in Santiago 

Jet contrails and street festival

The halo around Saint James is beautiful

An octopus awaits the final hour in a wine glass



Tuesday, May 21, 2013

Camino de Santiago (part 4)


During our journey we passed through Spring, Summer, and then Winter conditions. The highest temperatures we experienced were on the "meseta" a plateau we crossed where there was little to protect you from the beating sun. Crossing into Gallicia we climbed a small mountain range toward the summit and the boundary stone. These mountains are about 4000 feet in elevation and are the first range the winds off the Atlantic Ocean encounter on the continent. The area reminds me of the Appalacian Mountains, very green and moist. We were surprised by the severity of the weather and glad for out technical clothing which served us well. 

We had the opportunity to share a taxi to avoid the most severe and dangerous sections and because of the icy wind and isolation on the trail we considered it briefly. We did not want to get injured with a bad slip or wander down the wrong road and out into wilderness in the fog. But we decided against this option and were rewarded with an unforgettable experience hiking into Gallicia under difficult conditions.

In life there are so many opportunities to take the easy way, especially in modern society. But this is not always the best way or most satisfying experience. It is important to be flexible when considering all the options and not "pack your fears" and let them dictate your path. We had some fears on this day, but we decided not to let them lead us down the easy way. 


On the road from La Fada. As we climb into Gallicia the weather begins to deteriorate. 

Thankfully we are better prepared for the weather and low temperatures than this pilgrim!

A light snow covers the fields and the trees begin to  get icy.

Still climbing from La Fada. We are leaving the sunshine in the valley.

...and climbing into the clouds.

One of the many little wonderful surprises along the way.

Splendid high views into Gallicia.

Fields under snow late April

The boundary stone


Saint James stands in the central square in Obriero

The village church

Roads are getting icy. It is easy to slip or trip on the uneven surface

This is the man famous for improving the Camino and making it more easy to follow with the yellow arrows

Icicles make for a Christmas scene.

Severe weather not seen for 60 years in late April

We decide to do it on foot along with a few others. Many opt for a taxii to avoid the snow and ice...

...but we are rewarded with beautiful scenes...

...and very isolated moments....

...until we reach the windy summit

Descending from the summit we get more surprising winter views

Misty conditions but less wind...

...make for some very atmospheric almost eerie scenes
Near the summit


Descending into the valley on the other side

Ice covered trees in green fields!

A little break in a village church.