Camino de Santiago (part 4)

During our journey we passed through Spring, Summer, and then Winter conditions. The highest temperatures we experienced were on the "meseta" a plateau we crossed where there was little to protect you from the beating sun. Crossing into Gallicia we climbed a small mountain range toward the summit and the boundary stone. These mountains are about 4000 feet in elevation and are the first range the winds off the Atlantic Ocean encounter on the continent. The area reminds me of the Appalacian Mountains, very green and moist. We were surprised by the severity of the weather and glad for out technical clothing which served us well. 

We had the opportunity to share a taxi to avoid the most severe and dangerous sections and because of the icy wind and isolation on the trail we considered it briefly. We did not want to get injured with a bad slip or wander down the wrong road and out into wilderness in the fog. But we decided against this option and were rewarded with an unforgettable experience hiking into Gallicia under difficult conditions.

In life there are so many opportunities to take the easy way, especially in modern society. But this is not always the best way or most satisfying experience. It is important to be flexible when considering all the options and not "pack your fears" and let them dictate your path. We had some fears on this day, but we decided not to let them lead us down the easy way. 

On the road from La Fada. As we climb into Gallicia the weather begins to deteriorate. 

Thankfully we are better prepared for the weather and low temperatures than this pilgrim!

A light snow covers the fields and the trees begin to  get icy.

Still climbing from La Fada. We are leaving the sunshine in the valley.

...and climbing into the clouds.

One of the many little wonderful surprises along the way.

Splendid high views into Gallicia.

Fields under snow late April

The boundary stone

Saint James stands in the central square in Obriero

The village church

Roads are getting icy. It is easy to slip or trip on the uneven surface

This is the man famous for improving the Camino and making it more easy to follow with the yellow arrows

Icicles make for a Christmas scene.

Severe weather not seen for 60 years in late April

We decide to do it on foot along with a few others. Many opt for a taxii to avoid the snow and ice...

...but we are rewarded with beautiful scenes...

...and very isolated moments....

...until we reach the windy summit

Descending from the summit we get more surprising winter views

Misty conditions but less wind...

...make for some very atmospheric almost eerie scenes

Near the summit

Descending into the valley on the other side

Ice covered trees in green fields!

A little break in a village church. 

Camono de Santiago (part 3)

In most cases the trail follows ancient Roman roads. The destination for the day hovers in the distance...

...and slowly comes closer. Sometimes the town seems to move further away as you approach it, especially at the end of the day!

There are many reminders along the way of the spiritual nature of the Camino. Small rock pyramids spring up at special places. Even fence lines that follow the trail have sticks placed in the form of crosses.

The stone fences are beautiful. Most walls are dry stack rock  and have lasted for centuries. The top of the wall is a garden of succulent plants and mosses. 

It is best not to look too far ahead as the trail can sometimes seem endless. 

In some places evidence of ancient Celtic presence can be seen. Here are two menhirs standing majestically on a ridge. 

In towns you have to look for the shell symbol....

...or the yellow arrow...

...which is sometimes hidden and difficult to find. 

Jane usually got the bottom bunk and I the top bunk. The metal ladder rungs were a great problem in the morning; very hard on sore feet.

You can see that these bunk beds are arranged in a church (note the arches in the ceiling)

Our early morning walking partners. 

The inner courtyard of an Albergue. There was usually a place to hang out the washing and a place to visit with others

Some hostels had a common meal in which all the pilgrims could participate. This was a good time to get to know each other.

You'll never walk alone on the Camino!

Boots had to be removed inside the albergue and arranged on shelves. 

The courtyard of a convent hostel. The nuns were cloistered but I spied one hanging up her washing from my bathroom window!! Everything was white and black. 

A private hostel popular with the grafitti set. 

A kitchen used by pilgrims. Some of the municipal albergues have kitchens but no pots or pans or silverware. This one is well eqipped but small.

The office of a private albergue. Here is where you get your credential stamped. 

A statue of a pilgrim in front of a large municipal albergue. This one is in Astorga. 

This building was bought and converted into a pilgrim hostel by  members of a church group. They were so friendly and shared tea and busicuits with us though we did not stay there. 

Penny, Jan (from England) and young Michael (from Germany). They were part of our Camino family. We would bump into each other all along the way.

Roman bridges are a common sight.

Getting up early and striking out as the sun was rising in the east became a real joy. We were serenaded by birdsong throughout the day as larks, wrens, and field sparrows competed for pride of place with their melodic calling.  The coucou also became a favorite and evocative call, somewhat strange to our ears as it emanated from distant hedgerows. We grew very fond of these sweet morning sounds.

Of course we had no option other than to get up early. People anxious to get started usually began the first stirrings at 0530 and by 0600 the rustling of plastic bags was loud enough to wake the dead or at least to go through the thick wax earplugs stuffed deeply into each ear. (Sometimes I stuffed mine in so far I had to remove it through the other ear!). Then came the challenge of jumping out of the top bunk and getting an available toilet and  sink. Generally speaking there was a toilet for every 10-15 people, sometimes only one toilet for men and women. Pilgrims learn to get in and out quickly. Some of the albergues were run by the municipality, others private, still others by the church. Each one had their own unique stamp that was stamped into your credential (like a pilgrim passport). The passport has multiple folds, and gradually they became filled with stamps and were proof of your continued passage along the way. 
This was a requirement for the ultimate "Compostella" certificate           which is issued by the cathedral in Santiago.  Some hostels were very nice indeed, with little touches made by the hospetellier. Sometimes they were maintained by German groups associated with the confraternity of Saint James or the Friends of the Camino. We stayed in one run by an English group of volunteers which served 4 o'clock tea and biscuits in the English fashion. They had a lovely herb garden there as well. 

Early morning  was a good time of day to walk in silence. Our shadows would stretch out in front of us and the morning light bathed everything in soft glow which grew in intensity toward mid-morning. We welcomed the increase in intensity, as the weather was unseasonably cool and the breeze often stiff.